The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
06-06-2011, 02:35 PM
#1
The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
Until we get enough traffic to warrant our own sub-forum this is the thread we can use to ask questions, discuss options and products involved with an LS Swap. We can copy over the most informative posts from the SIKKY thread.
Also, it may be helpful if members that have already completed the swap post up what their setup currently consists of in terms of engine, trans, swap kit, F/I, etc...
Royal T - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...nuff-said.html
Cass007 - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...ll-thread.html
Quamen - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...h400-swap.html
Also, it may be helpful if members that have already completed the swap post up what their setup currently consists of in terms of engine, trans, swap kit, F/I, etc...
Royal T - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...nuff-said.html
Cass007 - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...ll-thread.html
Quamen - Build Thread: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...h400-swap.html
Last edited by Cass007; 07-27-2011 at 04:56 PM.
06-06-2011, 05:34 PM
#4
Guys that are in the midst of swaps now....document the little things (along with the big), etc as you progress. That is how we can create a truly useful FAQ for LS swaps. Ideally this can and will become the one stop shop for a LS swap related issue. Quamen, Royal, Cass, Snyper, etc....Don't be stingy on the details and words of wisdom 
.
.
Trending Topics
06-06-2011, 11:19 PM
#12
Registered User
Its really pretty simple.
You have two types of LS, gen III and gen IV
Gen III have the Cam angle sensors on the back in the worst place to get to, as well as cathedral ports on the heads.
Gen IV move the Cam sensor to the front, and are more oval ports on the heads.
98 or older engines are odd, just stay away.
The accessories are either for Vette, CTS-V, truck, or Fbody/GTO. They aren't very interchangable other than Fbody/GTO.
They're pretty straightforward, similar to VQ on what swaps. There are a bunch of small differences but typically you're a matter of swapping heads away from whatever route you wanna take.
Also I will never ever encourage anyone to run a front-sump pan without an accusump. Ls1's only downfall is their terrible oiling system, and an aftermarket pan absolutely does not solve the problem unless you
A) only rev to 5500 rpm.
B) Drive like a pansy.
06-07-2011, 02:53 AM
#13
^lol, also there are differences in the valley designs from the ls1/ls1/ls6 etc.
tons of info here
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132389
stay away from 98 model years. harness/ecu is different from 99+
the sensor list includes
2 knock sensors- ls1 mount in the vallEy cover (98 sensors and plugs are different from 99+) ls2 sensors mount on the lower back portion of the block on each side
2 o2 sensors
1 cam position sensor
1 crank position sensor
1 oil pressure sensor
1 oil level sensor (not needed)
1 coolant sensor
maf (both 3 pin and 5 pin)
map sensor
1 iat sensor (5pin mafs have then in the sensor)
1 tps sensor on throttle body
1 iac sensor on throttle body
ls2's are drive by wire, f body ls1 are cable driven
fbody accessories have a different layout then corvette accessories and truck accessories, by accessories i mean pulleys, alternators, etc.
gto power steering pumps are remote resevoir
corvette trans and harness will not work!!
if you go ls1 ecu, make sure its an e38, you can tell by a red port and a blue port. ls2 is called an e40.
ls1/ls6 valley covers fit the ls1/ls6 block. the ls6 has improved pcv routing, and requires slight modding of the ls1 block to fit. ls2 valley covers are not interchangeable!!!
FOR PCV ROUTING LOOK IN THIS LINK
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132389
for those of you with a koyo radiator, you will have 1" clearance from the tip of your water pump to the rad. either slim fans or pusher fans are required (with the sikky swap).
*tips*
install sikky shifter after motor and trans are "almost" in position (not bolted down), install shifter, raise the trans, then bolt the trans in. you cannot access the shifter bolts/shifter internals from above the trans tunnel or below once installed.
sikky driveshaft is a 27 spline, same as the factory t56. magnum trans will not fit, or anything upgraded with a 32 spline shaft.
installing the sikky trans hydraulics is crucial with the trans off the motor. the bleeder line threads in using a 13mm open end wrench, and the main hydraulic line (bottom line) slips in and is held in place by a pin.
the power steering hard line that threads onto the top of the ps rck needs to be slightly bent to clear the oil pa. it helps to remove this line while installing the motor, and bending accordingly after the motor is installed. the bend is very light.
header install has to be after the motor is bolted down as the collectors sit too far out once bolted in place (similar to the aam 3" dp's on the vq)
with the sikky setup, and harness service , all the factory gauges will work except the tach, the solution to that is in the link below. speedhut 4" tach. mounts above factory tach, and requires 1 wire to a tach signal on the ls ecu. i will do a detailed install once i get mine in this week.
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-609.htm
there are currently no exhaust options after the headers, however i am testing an ls1/lt1 3" y pipe to see how close they line up.
my hands are tired
heater is connected via your fctory z location which runs to the 2 ports on the passenger side of the water pump.
ls1 styled coolant hoses do not work with aftermarket intakes and are no longer produced, you must convert to ls6 style
with ls6/aftermarket manifolds, your valley cover bolts are too tall and require shorter heads on the bolts. i used allen key bolts.
ill update this often as i go along, and will get pics up as well
tons of info here
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132389
stay away from 98 model years. harness/ecu is different from 99+
the sensor list includes
2 knock sensors- ls1 mount in the vallEy cover (98 sensors and plugs are different from 99+) ls2 sensors mount on the lower back portion of the block on each side
2 o2 sensors
1 cam position sensor
1 crank position sensor
1 oil pressure sensor
1 oil level sensor (not needed)
1 coolant sensor
maf (both 3 pin and 5 pin)
map sensor
1 iat sensor (5pin mafs have then in the sensor)
1 tps sensor on throttle body
1 iac sensor on throttle body
ls2's are drive by wire, f body ls1 are cable driven
fbody accessories have a different layout then corvette accessories and truck accessories, by accessories i mean pulleys, alternators, etc.
gto power steering pumps are remote resevoir
corvette trans and harness will not work!!
if you go ls1 ecu, make sure its an e38, you can tell by a red port and a blue port. ls2 is called an e40.
ls1/ls6 valley covers fit the ls1/ls6 block. the ls6 has improved pcv routing, and requires slight modding of the ls1 block to fit. ls2 valley covers are not interchangeable!!!
FOR PCV ROUTING LOOK IN THIS LINK
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132389
for those of you with a koyo radiator, you will have 1" clearance from the tip of your water pump to the rad. either slim fans or pusher fans are required (with the sikky swap).
*tips*
install sikky shifter after motor and trans are "almost" in position (not bolted down), install shifter, raise the trans, then bolt the trans in. you cannot access the shifter bolts/shifter internals from above the trans tunnel or below once installed.
sikky driveshaft is a 27 spline, same as the factory t56. magnum trans will not fit, or anything upgraded with a 32 spline shaft.
installing the sikky trans hydraulics is crucial with the trans off the motor. the bleeder line threads in using a 13mm open end wrench, and the main hydraulic line (bottom line) slips in and is held in place by a pin.
the power steering hard line that threads onto the top of the ps rck needs to be slightly bent to clear the oil pa. it helps to remove this line while installing the motor, and bending accordingly after the motor is installed. the bend is very light.
header install has to be after the motor is bolted down as the collectors sit too far out once bolted in place (similar to the aam 3" dp's on the vq)
with the sikky setup, and harness service , all the factory gauges will work except the tach, the solution to that is in the link below. speedhut 4" tach. mounts above factory tach, and requires 1 wire to a tach signal on the ls ecu. i will do a detailed install once i get mine in this week.
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-609.htm
there are currently no exhaust options after the headers, however i am testing an ls1/lt1 3" y pipe to see how close they line up.
my hands are tired
heater is connected via your fctory z location which runs to the 2 ports on the passenger side of the water pump.
ls1 styled coolant hoses do not work with aftermarket intakes and are no longer produced, you must convert to ls6 style
with ls6/aftermarket manifolds, your valley cover bolts are too tall and require shorter heads on the bolts. i used allen key bolts.
ill update this often as i go along, and will get pics up as well
The following users liked this post:
Mr. Stimples (04-15-2017)
06-07-2011, 06:18 AM
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another option for ls swap kit I found this info from another forum:
Fueled Racing
We have finally released our 350z and G35 LS conversion kits. As with all Fueled Racing products they are 100% made in the USA and 100% HAND tig welded. Our mount kit includes both engine mounts with captured poly mounts and transmission crossmember with poly mount. The oil pan is a REAR sump Moroso oil pan with custom Moroso oil pickup tube, billet dip stick and stud kit. Driveshaft will come standard in D.O.M. steel with the availability of Aluminum or Carbon fibre. The basic kit will cost $1650
For those looking for a more complete kit we also offer the same basic kit with a few extras. Starting with 1.75 inch long tube headers that are fully hand tig welded using GMPP flanges, CNC bent runners and 3 inch collectors. As with all of our headers they are welded using bronze silica filler rod on the head flange, come ceramic coated and have no welds along the runners to restrict flow. Next we include a complete oil filter relocation kit with all reusable AN fittings and steel braided line. Both power steering pressure and return lines are included using custom AN fittings at the steering rack and at the pump. With these added options the kit will run $2600
Clutch hydralics kit will be $250
We offer a custom two row crossflow radiator with dual flexalites as well as all coolant and heater hoses.
A/C lines will run $350 with your cores.
We are currently developing a complete standalone EMS that will be able to run both the LS and all components of the Z or G such as gauges, A/C, A.B.S., S.I.R. and navigation. (working prototype is in two cars and will be ready to release once we come to an agreement with the manufacturer.)(the US based manufacturer is a extremely well respected stand alone manufacturer with heavy saturation in the Corvette and 350Z market.)
Fueled Racing
We have finally released our 350z and G35 LS conversion kits. As with all Fueled Racing products they are 100% made in the USA and 100% HAND tig welded. Our mount kit includes both engine mounts with captured poly mounts and transmission crossmember with poly mount. The oil pan is a REAR sump Moroso oil pan with custom Moroso oil pickup tube, billet dip stick and stud kit. Driveshaft will come standard in D.O.M. steel with the availability of Aluminum or Carbon fibre. The basic kit will cost $1650
For those looking for a more complete kit we also offer the same basic kit with a few extras. Starting with 1.75 inch long tube headers that are fully hand tig welded using GMPP flanges, CNC bent runners and 3 inch collectors. As with all of our headers they are welded using bronze silica filler rod on the head flange, come ceramic coated and have no welds along the runners to restrict flow. Next we include a complete oil filter relocation kit with all reusable AN fittings and steel braided line. Both power steering pressure and return lines are included using custom AN fittings at the steering rack and at the pump. With these added options the kit will run $2600
Clutch hydralics kit will be $250
We offer a custom two row crossflow radiator with dual flexalites as well as all coolant and heater hoses.
A/C lines will run $350 with your cores.
We are currently developing a complete standalone EMS that will be able to run both the LS and all components of the Z or G such as gauges, A/C, A.B.S., S.I.R. and navigation. (working prototype is in two cars and will be ready to release once we come to an agreement with the manufacturer.)(the US based manufacturer is a extremely well respected stand alone manufacturer with heavy saturation in the Corvette and 350Z market.)
06-07-2011, 10:34 AM
#17
^wow nice. but i didnt see a z specific kit yet so ill assume its in production, and its strange that i havent seen any advertising from this company, especially on nico or this board.
https://www.fueledracing.com/feature.php?fid=5
the only thing i do not see is a shifter option, however seeing that it has a rear sump setup leads me to believe that the motor sits further back and most likely utilizes a factory shifter. in for more details...
https://www.fueledracing.com/feature.php?fid=5
the only thing i do not see is a shifter option, however seeing that it has a rear sump setup leads me to believe that the motor sits further back and most likely utilizes a factory shifter. in for more details...
06-07-2011, 11:50 AM
#18
An addition to the bbs post about gauges. It is my understanding that currently the SIKKY kit and wiring harness work does NOT allow for AC to be turned on/off using the factory switch. A dedicated line is required to make this function, but all other controls work as normal.
To the guys that are modding the LS prior to install, please post what trans mods, heads, cam and such you have installed. Eventually when enough cars are up and running we can start a dyno thread to compare mods vs numbers vs cost. We are the pioneers gentlemen (Noah, Snyper and Havok are the true pioneers)... the foundation we lay will help those that come later do things right the first time.
Looks like I may be the first to find out if the LS can be bolted to the front cross-member and then raised into place just like we do with the VQs. I will try it with both headers on and see if it works.
bbs... waiting for the toutorial and lots of pics.
To the guys that are modding the LS prior to install, please post what trans mods, heads, cam and such you have installed. Eventually when enough cars are up and running we can start a dyno thread to compare mods vs numbers vs cost. We are the pioneers gentlemen (Noah, Snyper and Havok are the true pioneers)... the foundation we lay will help those that come later do things right the first time.
Looks like I may be the first to find out if the LS can be bolted to the front cross-member and then raised into place just like we do with the VQs. I will try it with both headers on and see if it works.
bbs... waiting for the toutorial and lots of pics.
06-07-2011, 11:58 AM
#19
******
iTrader: (1)
06-07-2011, 05:26 PM
#20
ok here we go with the pics n such
sensors
maf- i have a 5 pin maf w/ a 3 pin adaptor (early ls1 cars-maf is from an ls1 gto-notice the built in iac sensor located next to my index)
cam position sensor (top) + oil pressure sensor (bottom-long cylinder sensor) located behind the intake manifold
coolant sensor-located right below front driver side head
crankshaft position sensor (located on passenger side between block and starter)
knock sensor sub harness (99+ uses the new style connectors and sensors w/ no locking tab-they are push type)
tps sensor and iac sensor on throttle body
map sensor-back of manifold (not installed in pic-the one with orange on it)
oil level sensor (not required)
oil level sensor installs between block and alternator (fbody alternator configuration)
clearance from koyo 52mm rad and fbody water pump- i have normal sized hands, no goliath palming 2 basketball hands here
coolant port-ls1 coolant piping is no longer produced, you must use ls6 style which blocks off the rear 2 ports, and connects the front 2 ports to the throttle body
gm e38 ecu- the easy way to tell- red/blue printed on it-this is from a 00 ws6
sikky shifter from above trans tunnel-access to bolts is limited, so installation during motor install is recommended- after motor/trans is slipped in, before it is bolted down.
the power steering line that requires slight bending
1 side ls coilpacks-be cautious of these. you either want ls1 coils or truck coils that match the ls1 pinout. truck coils are better overall, and i purchased these from a 5.3 silverado and the pinouts from fbody harness to these is identical, and they bolt on to my aftermarket ls1 valvecovers. have not checked the part number to verify where they came from
here it is sitting in my z
sensors
maf- i have a 5 pin maf w/ a 3 pin adaptor (early ls1 cars-maf is from an ls1 gto-notice the built in iac sensor located next to my index)
cam position sensor (top) + oil pressure sensor (bottom-long cylinder sensor) located behind the intake manifold
coolant sensor-located right below front driver side head
crankshaft position sensor (located on passenger side between block and starter)
knock sensor sub harness (99+ uses the new style connectors and sensors w/ no locking tab-they are push type)
tps sensor and iac sensor on throttle body
map sensor-back of manifold (not installed in pic-the one with orange on it)
oil level sensor (not required)
oil level sensor installs between block and alternator (fbody alternator configuration)
clearance from koyo 52mm rad and fbody water pump- i have normal sized hands, no goliath palming 2 basketball hands here
coolant port-ls1 coolant piping is no longer produced, you must use ls6 style which blocks off the rear 2 ports, and connects the front 2 ports to the throttle body
gm e38 ecu- the easy way to tell- red/blue printed on it-this is from a 00 ws6
sikky shifter from above trans tunnel-access to bolts is limited, so installation during motor install is recommended- after motor/trans is slipped in, before it is bolted down.
the power steering line that requires slight bending
1 side ls coilpacks-be cautious of these. you either want ls1 coils or truck coils that match the ls1 pinout. truck coils are better overall, and i purchased these from a 5.3 silverado and the pinouts from fbody harness to these is identical, and they bolt on to my aftermarket ls1 valvecovers. have not checked the part number to verify where they came from
here it is sitting in my z
